Santiniketn, Birbhum, West Bengal
Santiniketan is a small town near Bolpur in the Birbhum district of West Bengal and about 165 kms north of Kolkata (formerly Calcutta). It forms one urban agglomeration with Bolpur. The twin towns of Santiniketan and Sriniketan are surrounded by Bolpur to the north, Kheya to the south, Surul to the east and Prantik to the west. The towns and the university are not far from the river Kopai which flows to the south.
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| Visva-Bharti University, Santiniketan |
Santiniketan was made famous by Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore, whose vision became what is now a university town – Visva-Bharati University established in 1921.
The place now attracts thousands of visitors each year.
Santiniketan was earlier called Bhuban danga (named after Bhuban Dakat, a local dacoit), and was owned by the Tagore family. In 1862, Maharshi Debendranath Tagore, the poet’s father, while on a boat journey to Raipur, came across a landscape with red soil and lush green paddy fields. He decided to plant more saplings and built a small house. He called his home Shantiniketan, the abode of peace. He founded an Ashram here in 1863 and became the initiator of the Brahmo Samaj. (Source : wbtourism.gov.in)
The Shantiniketan campus is adorned by splendid sculptures, frescoes, murals, and paintings of Rabindranath, Nandalal Bose, Ramkinkar Baij, Binodbehari Mukhopadhyay, and others.
Birbhum District, where the Shantiniketan is located, is also famous for its fairs and festivals like Poush Mela (December), Joydev Mela (January), Basanta Utsav (Holi) in March and the famous mystic Baul Singers.
Visva Bharati, founded by Rabindranath Tagore was declared a central university in 1951. It has produced such diverse personalities as Indira Gandhi and Amartya Sen. It has been home to great artists and musicians.
At Tagore's behest, the annual ‘Pous Utsav’ also known as "Poush Mela" became an important cultural event where students and teachers of his school took an active part.
Pous Mela, therefore, becomes a meeting ground for urban people and rural folk. Rural artisans bring their wares like batik printed materials, the most famous Santiniketan Leather bags, earthen wares, paintings, etc, to the fair while urban relatives set up stalls so that rural people could buy the new industrially produced goods that was revolutionizing life in the cities.
While it has not discarded its traditional value systems the educational system founded by Tagore thus proves to have also kept pace and evolved with changing times.
Rabindranath Tagore believed in open air education and had reservations about any teaching done within four walls. This was due to his belief that walls represent conditioning of mind. Tagore did not have a good opinion about the Western method of education introduced by the British in India; on this subject, Tagore and Gandhiji's opinion matched.
Tagore once said, "I do not remember what I was taught, I only remember what I learnt." Tagore's idea on education was that every person is genius and that all students may not bloom at the same time. So he devised a new system of learning in Visva-Bharati. He allowed students to continue their course till the student and his teacher both are satisfied.
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| Rabindranath Tagore with Mahatma Gandhi and Kasturba Gandhi at Santiniketan in 1940 |
Tagore once said, "I do not remember what I was taught, I only remember what I learnt." Tagore's idea on education was that every person is genius and that all students may not bloom at the same time. So he devised a new system of learning in Visva-Bharati. He allowed students to continue their course till the student and his teacher both are satisfied.
Tagore formally started the college with proceeds from the prize money of the Nobel Prize he received in 1913 for the publication of his book of poems Gitanjali.
The college also became a centre of Brahmo learning in this period. It was granted full university status in May 1951 by the government of independent India. The poet's youngest son, Rathindranath Tagore, became the first Upacharya (vice chancellor) of the new university. Another member of the Tagore family who performed the role of Upacharya was Indira Devi Chaudhurani, a niece of the poet.
Apart from Visva Bharati the Bengal Institute of Technology and Management (BITM) is also located in Santiniketan - a place you wouldn't readily associate with an engineering college. Even the surroundings are very different from, say, a BE College or a Jadavpur University. Situated in the midst of paddy fields along the Sriniketan bypass, seven kilometres from Bolpur, the BITM Santiniketan campus looks desolate and there's hardly any transport connecting the college to the nearest town. But once you enter BITM, it's a different world. You are greeted by huge buildings, gardens, canteens, laboratories and playgrounds that dot the 60-acre campus.
How to Get There
By Train
Bolpur is the railway station for Santiniketan. It is two to three hours by train from Kolkata. Convenient connections are 13017/13018 Gana Devta Express departing Howrah at 06:05, 3015/3016 Shantiniketan Express departing Howrah at 10:05 (this is the only train which originates/terminates in Howrah and Bolpur, so one has a better chance of finding seats on this train rather than the other trains if one buys unreserved tickets. If you are buying reserved tickets, then it won't make a difference), 2347/2348 Sahid Rampurhat Express departing Howrah at 12 noon (and taking only 2 hours 20 min - the shortest time ), 3011/3012 Malda Inter-city Express departing Howrah at 15:25, 5657/5658 Kanchenjunga Express departing Sealdah at 06:45, 2345/2346 Saraighat Express, 215/216 Visvabharati Fast Passenger, 3071/3072 Jamalpur Express, 209/210 Darbhanga Passenger are other good trains. (Visit makemytrip.com)
If you are female and taking the train, look for designated "Ladies Cars" to enjoy a more comfortable and hopefully less crowded ride. If you are travelling with significant amounts of baggage, be aware that even in reserved cars you may struggle for space, and hiring a car may be a better alternative to reach Santiniketan.
By Bus
Santiniketan is well connected by buses from all around. From Kolkata, if you want to go by bus, then you have to take Kolkata-Asansol bus or Kolkata-Suri bus. For Asansol bound bus you have to get down near Panagarh and for Suri bound bus you have to get down near Ilambazar and for both cases you have to catch another bus for Santiniketan.
By Car
Santiniketan is connected with Kolkata by an excellent road (Around 60% road is excellent 4-lane freeway. But then around ~70kms starting from Panagarh is of narrow and bumpy roads with traffic jams round the clock). From Kolkata travel to Dankuni and take the Durgapur Expressway. It is now part of NH2. It will bypass Saktigarh and Bardhaman. At Panagarh (Darjeeling Mor) turn right. After the highway crosses the Ajay river take the road to the right at Ilambazar and proceed towards Bolpur. At the Santiniketan-Sriniketan junction (also called Surul Mor) take the road to the left. Santiniketan is 212 km from Kolkata by road. Good drivers can cover the distance in about 3 hours. (wikitravel.org/en/Santiniketan)
Cyclerickshaws are the most convenient means of transportation as hired cars and taxis are not always readily available. If you are a tourist, don't get on the cycle rickshaws in front of the museum that are manned by the persistent teenagers as they will take you on a farcical circuitory route to make you spend more. Use the older guys. Or just walk round the town. Although there are a few to be found, auto-rickshaws are not yet common in this area.
If you are planning an extended stay, it may be worth your while to purchase a bike from one of the many local cycle shops. A brand new bicycle will run you between Rs 2,200-2,600, (about US$45-55).
Places that attract thousands of visitors in Santiniketan
Tagore's Ashram : (Closed on Wednesdays) One has to walk through the area. Guides are generally available outside Uttarayan Complex/Rabindra Bhaban, otherwise one has to follow the crowd. The first building in the area was a guest house built in 1863 by Maharshi Devendranath Tagore, father of Rabindranath Tagore. It was named Santiniketan and thereafter the entire place acquired that name. Hermitage created with a Trust Deed in 1888 by Maharshi Devendranath Tagore. The area has several buildings associated with the Tagores - Santiniketan building, Nutan Bari, Dehali etc. School classes and major functions are held in the Amra Kunja (mango grove). Some of the Visva Bharati institutions are also located here. Tourists are not allowed to stray into areas where outdoor classes are held as they disturb studies. Some distance away on the eastern side is a small hillock with a large banyan tree. It was a favourite of Maharshi Devendranath Tagore.
Chhatimtala : Prayer place (under the "Chhatim" tree) of Maharshi Devendranath Tagore.
Brahma Mandir : Constructed in 1891, Prayer Hall or Upasana Griha of the university is made with marble and stained Belgium glasses. It was built in 1863 by the poet’s father Debendranath Tagore. The prayer hall looks amazing in gleaming artificial light during the evening service.
(https://footlooseforever.com/category/travel/kolkata/)
Uttarayan Complex : ( Closed on Wednesdays) The complex has several buildings associated with Tagore's memory - Udayan, Konark, Shyamali (mud hut), Punascha and Udichi. The complex has well-laid out gardens. Combined entry fee for Uttarayan complex and Rabindra Bhaban Museum is Rs 5. Cameras and hand bags not allowed.
Rabindra Bhaban Museum : (Open on working days from 10:30-16:30. Open on Sundays. Closed on Wednesadys). The house is called ‘Bichitra.’ Constructed in Tagore's birth centenary year 1961 it houses original manuscripts, letters, documents, medals (including Nobel Prize medallion replica which was stolen some years back), plaques, certificates, paintings, photographs etc. During Poush Mela the place is over-crowded and queues for entry are long.
Khoai Mela : The mela starts from around 15:00 and goes on till about 17:30-18:00 only on Saturdays and is worth visiting.
Amar Kutir : Many handicrafts like cloth, leather, batiks, hand-loomed fabrics and similar available.
Kopai river : Known as ‘Amader chhoto nodi’ in many of Tagore's poems, particularly those for children.
Shilpa Gram : Shilpa Gram is close to the Ballavpur deer sanctuary. It is designed very nicely and showcases traditional handicrafts of eastern region (including Bihar, Assam, Orissa, Manipur, Andaman, Jharkhand etc). Each state is represented by a traditional house which has collection of paintings, artifacts etc. The place is maintained neatly and has good collection of cultural elements
Prakriti Bhavan : Located in the Ballavpur area of Santiniketan, Birbhum, West Bengal. It is India's one and only Nature Art museum with an impressive indoor display of natural sculptures in driftwood, dry wood and a sprawling open air garden of natural rock sculptures. Set in the most picturesque part of Santiniketan it is an aesthetic manifestation of the legacy of Tagore's Santiniketan in linking man with nature through Art, music and poetry .
New Buddha Statue : A new 34 foot White Buddha Statue in Ballavpur Danga is a must visit place in Santiniketan. It was constructed by ‘Santiniketan Ambedkar Buddhist Welfare Mission’ (www.sabwmission.in). Constructed by local artistes, it is an ode to the spiritual messages of the compassionate Buddha found in the literature of this great poet and visionary.
Kala Bhavana (College of fine arts and crafts), has a museum exhibiting sculptures, frescoes and murals and a library of art books. Look out for sculptures and frescoes of Nandalal Bose, Ramkinkar Baij and Binode Bihari Mukherjee, particularly around Kala Bhavana. Kalo Bari beside Sangeet Bhavana is also interesting.
Patha Bhavana, Now a secondary school, is of particular interest, being an example of the traditional Brahmacharya Ashram.
Those who are knowledgeable about Rabindranath Tagore, his contribution to Bengali culture and his activities can enjoy a visit to Santiniketan thoroughly. Semi-official guides charge Rs 150 for showing around Santiniketan and Rs 300 for the entire area including Sriniketan and Amar Kutir. They are knowledgeable and explain things well. They are particulalrly helpful in identifying sculptures and frescoes. (https://footlooseforever.com/category/travel/kolkata/)
Fairs and Festivals in Santiniketan
Poush Mela : The fair is held at Santiniketan from 7th-9th Poush (December 22/23-25). Tribal sports, folk songs and dances including songs by bauls, the itinerant singers, are a part of the fair and festivities. Some sort of "bhanga mela" or broken fair, with some shops, continue till the end of December.
Accommodation is heavily booked during this period. Anybody wanting to visit during his period will need to plan ahead for hotel bookings.
Maghotsav : Anniversary of Brahmo Samaj celebrated on the 11th of Magha (25th January), with prayers and songs at Chhatimtala.
Basanta Utsav : Held to celebrate Holi (March). The students dance and sing their ways through Amrakunja, followed by open-air variety programmes.
Accommodation is heavily booked during this period. Anybody wanting to visit during his period will have to plan ahead.
Rabindra Jayanti : Although the birth anniversary of Rabindranath falls on 25th Baisakh (May 8/9), the anniversary as well as the Bengali New Year (Nabo Barsho) is celebrated on the first day of the Bengali New Year (Poila Baisakh) in mid-April with songs, dances, and recitations by the students.
Briksharopana planting of saplings and Halakarshana ploughing of the fields on 22nd and 23rd Sravana (August).
Varshamangal : Festival of rains during August/September. Tagore was a poet of nature and some of his finest creations were about the rains.What to Buy :
Handicrafts, Batik prints, leather craft. A favourable time for shopping is during the "Pous Mela". The unique style of embroidery associated with Santiniketan is known as'kantha stitch'. 'Sudha Karu Shilpa' in Andrews palli, hand made Batik works are available at "karu-shangha, an organization founded by Nandalal Basu for the house wives, who are ex-students of kala-bhavana Santinikeatn, 'Amar Kutir' in Sriniketan, and 'Basundhara' in Sonajhuripalli offer quality kantha stitchwork in the form of Sarees, Dupattas etc throughout the year. Other handicrafts like dokra (artistic brassware from nearby Dariapur), leather bags, bamboo toys and locally handwoven cotton are also worth a look.
Surul - near Sriniketan, temples with exquisite terracotta carvings.
Kankalitala - 9 km, on the bank of the river Kopai, one of the satipeethas.
Labhpur-Fullara - 30 km, a Satipitha, birth place of Tarashankar Bandopadhyay.
Nanoor - 20 km, birth place of Chandidas, 14th century Sanskrit poet, famous for his Vaishnav Padavalis. There is a temple dedicated to Devi Basuli.
Kendubillo - 30 km, on the bank of the river Ajay, birth place of 12th century Sanskrit poet Joydeb, author of the masterpiece Geeta Govinda. A fair is held here on Makar Sankranti (mid January). Baul songs are the principal attraction of this mela. There is a temple with terracota decorations.
Bakreshwar - 58 km, Satipitha, also famous for the Bakranath Shiva temple and hot springs.
Tarapith - 88 km, Saktipeetha, famous temple of Tara Devi.
Nalhati - 100 km, Shaktipeetha
Sainthia - 44 km, Shaktipeetha
Massanjore - 75 km, in Dumka district of Jharkhand, a dam across the river Mayurakshi with a picturesque reservoir. One can travel on to Deoghar another 98 km in the same direction.
Durgapur - 60 km, the steel city. One can travel on to Vishnupur another 70 km in the same direction or on to Asansol, another 30 km, along NH2.
Santiniketan is a pioneering experiment in internationalism. At a time when India was grappling with the problems of colonialism and seeking its freedom from British authority, Tagore's vision surpassed national and cultural boundaries to establish a larger international vision, that of universal humanism. Through bringing diverse individuals together in a hospitable setting, he sought to promote understanding between different linguistic groups, different races and global cultures and diverse religions.
The motto that Tagore chose for Visva Bharati, Yatra Visvam Bhavatyekanidam, 'where the whole world can find a nest', reflected his aspiration for the institution. (Unesco.org/en/tentativelists/5495)